UPPER RUSSIAN RIVER

Are you in Sonoma County, where anti-nudity laws are sometimes enforced? Then here's some good news: there's a clothing-optional riverbank just three miles over the county line in Mendocino which deputies never visit. Plus, it's protected from the wind by a canyon. Upper Russian River Beach is also shielded from view by passing drivers. And even on the hottest days, you'll probably be the only one present. Even though it is close to Cloverdale, few visitors, including those with swimsuits, usually show up.

Unknown.

From San Francisco, follow Highway 101 north, past Santa Rosa and Cloverdale. When you cross into Mendocino County, check your odometer and drive 2.9 miles north. Exit onto Comminsky Station Road and take it west to the end. Park and walk down a short path to the beach.

The river curves here, leaving a ribbon of fine sand for sunning along its banks.

The sandbank is visited by a few nudists and nonnudists, depending on the time of year.

Unknown legal status; needs better directions.

GUALALA RIVER

Located just north of Sea Ranch, a site used by nudists and non-nudists alike provides a great stopping point if you're looking for a quick day trip -- or a nearby campground -- next to Highway 1. But Gualala can also be windy or foggy, so be sure to bring a jacket and windbreak with you, just in case conditions change.

Unknown.

The beach is one mile south of the town of Gualala and 1.5 miles north of Gualala Point County Park. From Bodega Bay, drive north on Highway 1 past Fort Ross, Plantation, and Sea Ranch. Look for cars parked on Highway 1 just past the park boundary at Gualala River, the first landmark you'll see after the park. Access to the river mouth is by some dirt roads on the ocean side.

Big and sandy, but sometimes buffeted by breezes.

Numbers depend on the weather and the time of year. On the sunniest summer days, no more than a few dozen visitors are usually present.

Wind; fog; cool temperatures; lack of seclusion.

LILIES BEACH

One of Northern California's best nude swimming holes, Lilies is great to visit in summer or early fall, when temperatures there often rise into the 80's, even though it may be only in the 50's just down the street in nearby Mendocino village. Due to a drop in winter rain, the water level at Lilies is very low this year, according to Steph Anderson, facilities manager of the Mendocino Woodlands Camp Association. Depending on the previous winter's storms, roads leading from Little Lake Road, near Highway 1 in "Mendo," may be rutted, but usually passable. Expect a nice, fairly mellow crowd, with a sprinkling of youths, who are occasionally cited by rangers for underage drinking. In the past, some visitors have complained about trash and noise from adjacent homeless camps, but the campers have only occasionally been spotted in recent years. Says Anderson, who was interviewed in August, "It's been a fairly peaceful summer. There have been no major incidents."

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park, established in 2002. According to the Big River Preliminary Plan for the park, until more surveys are done, "all access to and recreational use" of the area "is subject to approval" by the park superintendent "and can be limited by posted order" within the park. The Plan says that the hole at Lilies is considered a "local gathering spot" and swimming there is "currently not restricted," a sign that it may be permitted to continue.

From Albion, take Highway 1 north to Mendocino, then turn right on Little Lake Road, the first right turn past the main Mendocino turnoff sign. Drive four or five miles east on Little Lake until you see a sign for Mendocino Woodlands. Follow the dirt road that starts there for about three miles. When you see the Woodlands retreat, go right about .3 miles, until the dirt road ends next to Big River. Park just off the road, where you see other cars pulled over. Follow the trail that begins there a quarter mile to the beach. Or, to save 1.5 miles, from Mendocino drive 3.5 miles east on Little Lake until you spot a dirt road with a yellow Forest Service gate. Follow the road to a second yellow gate. Just past the gate, at the juncture of several roads, turn right and take the dirt road to the parking area.

Are you ready to enjoy a beautiful forest riverbank with nice water for swimming? If so, then you'll probably like Lilies. But bring flip-flops or old shoes to wear in the rock-strewn creek. To reach the beach from the path, wade across the water to a site that's part sand and also has some gravel.

Anywhere from a few (more the norm) to 20 people can be found at Lilies, depending on the time of year and weather, according to frequent visitor Henry. That's quite a plunge from crowds of the '80s and '90s, when some 50-to-200 users would appear on hot summer days, with more than nine out of 10 of them usually going nude. Nudists, including small groups and families who often come in the summer, enjoy the town's favorite swimming hole along with swimsuit-wearing teens, adults, and periodic partiers.

Low water level; state undecided about anti-nudity enforcement (but no record of raids by local authorities in recent memory); increased ticketing of off-road drivers and underage drinkers reported; bumpy, rutted roads after heavy winter rains; trash near parking area; poison oak may be present; rocky river bottom; cold water; long walk to beach.

BOYLES SWIMMING HOLE

Also called Dead Man's Hole, Boyles is located just east of Lilies Beach and Mendocino Woodlands State Park, further up Big River from Lilies. From time to time, a few skinny-dippers hike or bike to Boyles, which even has a great rope swing. But it is mostly used by suited swimmers. To reach the swim spot, take the trail that begins at Lilies. The crowd here is a little noisier and more social than the more laid-back types found at Lilies.

One nagging problem is that although access is blocked to recreational vehicles by fallen trees, "motorcycles are still an issue," says Anderson. "Motorcyclists are finding a way through any inch (of space) they can."

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park, created in 2002. A park plan says that swimming at Boyles is "currently not restricted," a possible indication that it may be allowed to continue.

Follow directions to Lilies Beach. Park where the dirt road ends at Big River and, turning left, parking where you see other cars pulled over. "When you exit your vehicle, you'll be facing a yellow gate with a bridge viewable behind it," tells Brian, a local resident. "Take the trail that starts there and stay on it until you arrive at Boyles." For most walkers, the hike from the Lilies area and the Mendocino Woodlands Camp property will be quick. "I can walk there in 10 minutes," says Anderson. Boyles is east and slightly south of Lilies. For location, see the right side of this map.

A nice deep swimming hole with a rope swing.

Most of the several to dozen or so visitors on an average day will probably be suited. And on some days, the scene is downright crowded. "There's been a ton of people down at Boyles," said Anderson in August. But on days when Boyles isn't busy, a few skinny-dippers plunge into the cool, invigorating water.

Same as Lilies, plus motorcycles on trail (see above), long walk and crowd more rowdy.

ELSEWHERE ON BIG RIVER

Want to try four more clothing-optional riverbank nooks on Big River? From Lilies Beach, walk downstream. Last season, the spots that were downstream were "maybe waist deep," reported regular visitor Brian. "At a few spots you can even jump into the water." Suggests Bill Johnson, of San Francisco, "Bring some old shoes you can wear for wading." We call these beaches Two Bends, Three Bends, Five Bends, and Six Bends.

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park.

Follow directions to Lilies, then walk two, three, five, and six bends downstream along the river, which at times resembles a creek.

Little riverbank sand shoals with cool water that may be shallow or moderately deep.

Probably just you.

Rocky river bottom; needs better directions; antinudity regulations may be enforced by state rangers in the future.

EEL RIVER

Are you eager for excitement? Do you yearn for a little off-road adventure? Picture a trip in which, at every turn of the river, there's another nude swimming hole to try. There are at least seven sans-suit swim spots just waiting to be explored along the enchanting Eel River. Among the ones used mainly by local residents is this one, near the town of Pillsbury, on the south fork of the river.

Part of Mendocino National Forest.

From San Francisco, head north on Highway 101, passing Santa Rosa and Ukiah, to Route 20. Take Route 20 east about five miles to the Potter Valley cutoff on your left and follow it northeast past the town of Potter Valley, north of Upper Lake. Follow the signs to Lake Pillsbury. After you climb a ridge and begin to go back down, follow the left fork in the road. Access to the south fork of the Eel is from this road, some 10 miles south of Van Arsdale Reservoir and Cape Horn Dam. The reservoir and dam are south of Pillsbury. Consult a good map.

Small but comfortable, a good spot to soak up a few rays next to a deep swimming hole.

Just a few bathers in the buff, plus suited swimmers too.

Increased trash; directions could be improved.

WILLITS NUDE HOLE

Willits has both nude and nonnude swimming holes on the Eel River. The town's skinny-dipping site is around 30 minutes from downtown. "It's a great place to visit from the spring into the early autumn," says Mary. "It tends to be warm, but not overly hot. Just about everyone goes nude. In fact, if you leave your clothes on, it's considered strange." After traveling on good pavement, users follow a rutted road to the river and pick from a number of holes on either side of the river. "It's a miserable, hot, dirty road, with lots of dust," points out Mary. Another drawback is that in the water, "don't be surprised if you feel something nipping at your feet," says Mary's husband, Bill. Depending on the time of year, "little black clouds" of small fish or possibly pollywogs may pour from under the river rocks and swarm around you. Bring water shoes to wear along the shore, which has both sand and rocks. Except for the rutted road and little fish, expect nothing but big time fun at this no-hassle, clothing-free oasis in inland California.

Unknown.

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to Willits. In downtown Willits, turn right on E. Commercial Street and, passing the library and fairgrounds, continue straight. At the curve, bear left. Look for a driving range on the right and a white building on the left. At the street with the white building, turn left. A mile or so later, turn right. The Hearst Willits Road sign is a good landmark. If you see it, keep going straight until you come to Tomki Creek. Cross the bridge over the creek, then turn left onto the first road, which parallels the creek. Note: it's mostly dirt, with intermittent pavement. You'll soon come to a spot where you can turn left or go uphill. Drive uphill until you arrive at Hearst. After Hearst, look for a steel bridge on your left. Before or at the bridge, on the left, check for a deeply rutted road. Turn left and follow car tracks to the river. Park and walk upstream or downstream to any of several skinny-dipping holes.

A series of swimming holes dotting both sides of the river for the length of a city block. The beaches are mainly gravely riverbanks, with some sand. "The best hole, which is deep, is next to a rock formation on the other side of the river," says Bill. "For some nice holes with faster water, walk upstream."

"Depending on when you visit and which spot you pick, you can be by yourself or, on a hot weekend, with 10 or 20 people," says Mary. "At that point, the area is really full." A few visitors have bonfires on the beach. Almost everybody is nude, according to Mary.

Unknown legal status; nipping fish; rutted and dusty roads; gravel-strewn riverbank.

DOS RIOS

Have you ever gone canuding? Here's how to do it: just paddle your canoe to a nude swimming hole, pull your craft up on the bank, take off your clothes, and jump in. This beach, north of Willits, and the next four sites are sandy banks along the Eel River that can be reached via canoeing. You can also use a rowboat or hike there. Access is believed to be from the area near Dos Rios in the south and tiny Cummings in the northwest. The nearest large towns are Laytonville and Leggett.

Not known.

From the Bay Area, head north on Highway 101 to Willits; from the Mendocino coast, go east on Highway 20 to Willits. Follow 101 north past Willits to Longvale, then travel northeast on Highway 162 to Dos Rios. The first of the skinny-dipping holes is several miles north of town.

Larger and sandier than most of the swimming holes on our list, except Mendocino's Lilies Beach and the sites along the Russian River.

Fishermen, boaters, and small numbers of skinny-dippers show up here.

Unknown legal status; directions need improving; trash; proximity to train tracks.

POON KINNY RIDGE

Smaller than the beach at Dos Rios, Poon Kinny is just as fun.

Unknown.

Follow directions for Dos Rios. The beach is on the Eel River along the Poon Kinny Ridge, between Dos Rios and the southern border of Round Valley Reservation.

Similar to Dos Rios.

A few skinny-dippers, anglers, and boaters.

Same as Dos Rios.

NORTH POON KINNY

North Poon Kinny features a swimming hole with cool, enticing water and a small beach with a mixture of sand and rocks.

Unknown.

Follow directions to Dos Rios. The Eel River hole is about one to two hours north of Poon Kinny Ridge by canoe.

The skinny on Kinny is that there's not much sand here. The water is fairly shallow this year.

Even fewer people than at Dos Rios and Poon Kinny Ridge.

Same as Dos Rios.

ROUND VALLEY

Canoeing is the best way to reach beautiful Round Valley Beach, on the Eel River.

Believed to be part of Round Valley Reservation.

Follow directions for Dos Rios, Poon Kinny Ridge, and North Poon Kinny. The Round Valley swimming hole is some 5-to-10 miles north of North Poon Kinny. If you're coming by canoe, give yourself another hour past North Poon Kinny.

Same as North Poon Kinny.

Naturists, fishermen and fisherwomen, and canoers all come here to cool off.

Same as Dos Rios.

SPY ROCK BEACH

You'll need to be a good spy to find Spy Rock Beach, so look below for some clues to discovering this breathtaking bend in the Eel River that canuders like to visit. If you strip down on the way here, don't forget to keep on a pair of reading glasses. Use them to follow a map to this hidden treasure.

Part of Round Valley Reservation.

The beach is just south of Blue Rock Creek and Bell Springs Station. If you can find Leggett, you're on the right track because the swimming hole is just east of the town. Follow the directions to Dos Rios. This hole is virtually opposite scenic Spy Rock. Access is by canoe or other boat.

Similar to Dos Rios.

Probably just you. Not too many people come here, perhaps because of the canoeing distance from Dos Rios.

Same as Dos Rios.

RATTLESNAKE CREEK

One of California's "secret" nude swimming holes, located in a jewel-like setting of waterfalls, tanning rocks, and great water, requires up to an hour's walk to reach. But once you arrive, you may be rewarded with your own, private nude beach. Those who make the journey to Rattlesnake Creek often go nude once they arrive. Tips: Pack water, wear hiking boots, and get ready for fun at this 20-foot tall, clothing-optional waterfall in the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness past Covelo. Rattlers really do live in the rocky, brush-strewn canyon through which you'll be walking. But, says Pancho Doll, in Day Trips With A Splash: The Swimming Holes Of California, it's worth the trek because it will bring you to "a tiny precious gorge" with the shimmering falls and swim hole.

Unknown.

From Covelo, take Highway 338 east as it parallels the middle fork of the Eel River. At the Eel River Work Station in Mendocino National Forest, take M-1 north toward the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness. Keep your eyes open for a bridge that crosses Rattlesnake Creek. Park near the bridge. On the south side of the road, near the back end of an undeveloped camping area, look for an unmarked path. Budget 30-to-60 minutes for the hike to the falls, which will take you past trees and down a gully. Follow the gully left to the water. At the creek, walk upstream until you come to the skinny-dipping hole and falls. Boots are recommended.

Instead of a real beach, expect rocks and rocky ledges. But you'll have your own clothing-optional swimming hole and a beautiful waterfall.

Undoubtedly just you. Some visitors apparently stay overnight at the unsanctioned camping spot near the bridge.

Rocks and rocky ledges; trail unmarked; unknown legal status; and did we mention the snakes?

STONY CREEK

Next to a creek in the Mendocino National Forest, roughly two hours from Clearlake, hikers will come across a startling sight -- three pools that are great for skinny-dipping. Two of the swimming holes even have their own waterfalls. If you look carefully, a third hole can be found below them, off a sunny path.

U.S. Forest Service land within the Snowy Mountain Wilderness.

From Clearlake, take Highway 53 north 3.8 miles, then turn right onto Highway 20. Go 28 miles and make a left turn onto Leesville Road. Follow it for 13.6 miles. Next, turn right onto Leesville Lodoga Road. Stay on Leesville Lodoga for 9 miles, then turn left onto Lodoga Stonyford Road. Drive 7.7 miles to Stonyford. Pick up M-10 at the Stonyford Work Center, at 5171 Stonyford-Elk Creek Road in Stonyford and follow it 10 miles to North Fork Campground. You've almost arrived! Park at the campground and take the trail up Stony Creek until you reach another creek that comes in from the west. After another 10 minutes of walking, check for an overhang that juts over the creek. That's where you'll find the lower of the three pools. Walk 10 minutes farther upstream and you will see the pools with the waterfalls.

A trio of secluded pools with some rocks that can be used for sunbathing and at least two waterfalls.

Probably just you.

The tanning rocks are sometimes slippery; lack of many landmarks on the trail; high heat on the trail during the summer because it is exposed to the sun (be sure to wear a cap).